"You want to go to hell?" said the old man and smiled widely. It was his punch line, and I bet it worked well with the tourists. "No thanks, we'd like to do it ourselves," I answered matching his smile. "There many paths and turns... I can show you the way," continued the man and began mumbling something about Tomb Raider. I swear, sometimes I feel that to them I am a three year-old with a nail and a sledgehammer who stumps her foot at any wise offers to help, with the words (and I need some baby voice here please): "No! I want to do it myself!" "No, thank you," I answered again, but the man still followed us down Hell Canyon of Hell's Gate National Park and gave up only on the fifth "nothankyou" when he saw Shurik was beginning to get annoyed.